DAY 35- its the people that make a place
There are those days, and there are those places where NICE just seems to be the order of the day, and in Woodson County which is most noted for its production of world class "Praire Hay".
The hay from this county is bought a full year in advance, and almost all of it is shipped to the Kentucky Bluegrass country for the race horses that are raised there. But on this day, it will be the people of Woodson County that make it a place to go see for yourself.
I had no real intent to stop in the very small town of Yates Center, Kansas it was just another small town and I was rolling.
But the little sign that was posted to invite me to see "Historic Town Square" done the trick, and I was rolling in off the beaten path to see it all. It was fairly early, around 8:30 when I pulled in, and an elderly lady was busy hanging Halloween decorations at the local coffee and doughnut shop............Looks like the place for guy built like me.
I head in and get a coffee and a doughnut from the elderly patron and find a place at the end of the LOCAL table, that's the one that always has a large gathering of local farmers and shopkeepers in for thier mornning brew and chew session.
There are about 8 that make up the group at the other end of the table, and I am trying to think of something I can ask that will give me a chance to start a conversation with them. SO, I ask about MILO, which is a crop I see grown in abundance around here and one I know little about...............so, throw out the question and await a reply. Dang that aint going to work, the reply was about 4 words and the conversation was over..........." we feed it to cows" was about all I learned. So I sat and pondered my next attempt.........
Thats when the eldest patron of this table of elders came my way, and invited me to come and sit down at his end of the table............."but I warn ya, he says, pointing to a tiny sign hanging on the wall that reads - The Liars Club" and he had a wry smile on his face as he stuck his hand out to greet me in the official manner. Then the introductions carried on around the table. So before I sat down at the chair made available to me, I warned those fellows that in 5 minutes they would be very likely to elect me as there next President of the Local Liars Club.........to which they all laughed and I knew that the ice was broken.
From 67 on up to 93, was the age of this group of men, most of whom had been raised in Yates Center and many of these fellows had gone to the same one room school house and some even in the same grade with each other. They had shared years of toil on the farm and also in the streets of Yates Center in business. The one thing that they seemed to share to the greatest depth was a kinship for each other and the little town they proudly called home. Thier little town had none of the latest ammenities, but all of the oldest worthy attributes............no Starbucks, no Borders, and no Bed Bath and Beyond...............no, theres was a town blessed with friendship and respect that ran 3 feet deep.
The group of men I sat with had served in WW2 and Korea. They shared in the plight of battle on soil so far from home, and they shared in the memories of fellas that they knew whom never made it home from the same conflicts that they themselves lived to tell about. They shared in the plight of the young men and women whom have gone to Iraq, to fight a battle that most of us do not understand. One asks, is this a battle of "ideology or religion" or is it a battle of oil domination. Well, none of the members of Liars Club could answer, the bottom line seemed to be that we need to win. Say, do you like Blugrass I am asked by Norman, moving us on to a lighter topic? Why yes, but I am not a musician at all. Just wondering says Norman, Kansas has a world-class Blue Grass festival. The conversation drifts from personele interests to political interests and back again, like the constant rythm of the waves on the ocean, the underlying principle is " what does the stranger amongst us think". I am rather unabashed about my opinion on most matters and so they knew when I left just what it is that drives Jeremiah. The whole process was done with humor and respect for each others feelings and values, most of which we shared very openly. The constant companion to this entire conversation was the BIKE which sat outside, idlly leaning against the wall as if it where the one tired. And each person who walked into the store was promprtly told that I was the fella whom was riding that bike across America. And from there, a knew line of questions would start all over again.
I felt the need to get on the move, and made jsut that declaration, I told them all how much I had enjoyed the conversation and warm welcome...........but it was time I moved on I said. "Why son, you can't be goin just yet, you'll have to hang around or dinner at Frannies". Shoot I said, thats some time off and I got miles to ride yet. Well says one older fella, you ain't seen our Courthouse out in the town square yet have ya? And ya gotta take a walk around the town square anyways says another. By the time ya do that Frannie will have dinner ready, now you get on out for a walk, and we will see ya at Frannies a little later..................shoot, ya haven't even been to Kansas unless ya ate at Frannies. Okay fellas, I get the point, I will be at Frannies for dinner.
I get the guided tour of the Woodson County Couthouse. They even unlock the actual courtroom so I can take pictures of it, and anything else that I may want to to take a picture of. Chris, is my guide and the local historian of the happenings of Yates Center, he's the local building custodian and knows all there is to know. The truth is, they are just as proud of the little town inside this courthouse as they are inside the coffee shop, and with due reason, the courthouse is gorgeous. And very interesting!
From there I take a long slow amble around the town square, which is a little on the beleagured side today, but at one time it was a happening place. There is the bandstand that held not only musical events of all types, but boxing and wrestling on many occassions, not to mention the hot winded campaigning politicians of the time. It all used to happen on this town square, but no more. Those days have given way to television, and the Super Walmart 3 towns away..........and in each small town dust gathers on store shelves and on the benches of town squares all around the midwest. The hustle and bustle of a busy Saturday night have gave over to the slow shuffle of another slowly dying community. But there is a bright note in this little town and a spark I haven't seen in many others...............these folks love there little town and I get the feeling that they won't let go easily of what once was.
I meet Red, a large man for his age, now in his seventies, and runs one of the local Antique Malls. Red used to be Kansas Highway Patrol and also Sheriff of Yates Center. Hello son, he says, been riding a bit have ya? Yes sir, I tell him left a good home and a good wife about 35 days ago and I am not sure why I tell him. We both have a good laugh, and continue talking. Not alot around here for the younger folks to do any more, they most all move into the larger cities or move out of State says Red. Are ya checking out our town square, you should have seen it back in the 50's-and 60's says Red, it was quite a sight back then why this place on a Saturday night was standing room only when a big band pulled into town. By the way,you don't want be missing our Frannies, says Red, you will enjoy that if ya hang around. Yup, I says, I am hanging around so I can say that I ate at Frannies. Thats good Red assures me.
I walked, and cycled the entire town square looked in all the USED stores, and peered into all the used to be stores that now collect dust and cobwebs rather than customers. It was fnally time to cross the Square to the very popular Frannies. The obscure black and white doors, mark the entrance to this dinning mecca....................but for what reason remains a mystery to me. Upstairs I go..........well at least I start until I spot the menu board. A very simple two line menu board greet all comers to Frannies, and it reads dinner $1.00 what ever we serve, and Pie $1.00 per slice, all drinks included. Folks, it can't get any simpler than that. So up I go, I cover the two long flights of wooden stairs without even working at it, and am greeted by a throng of people entering and or exiting a narrow wooden doorway.................gotta be the place I think to my self. When I enter I can spot almost the entire Liars Club and more, sitting right in front is my new friend Norman and a lady whom I learn is Norman's wife Jan. In small town fashion, they invite me to join them for dinner.
On the right as you enter is the kitchen of Frannie and her 1 staff, and a front counter over which she hands you the dinner of the day. On this day, we had a baked potatoe and a healthy helping of green beans and Ham, you can have 1 or 2 slices of buttered bread along with water/coffee and or Tea take your choice. She hands this over the counter to you and then you find an open seat and enjoy the meal and the fellowship with a local or maybe another traveller its a mixed bag. The front of the counter is lined with pies, and on this day, I think that there were 15 flavors of pie, hand made by Frannie each day. Hey folks, I will take this over Starbucks any day!!!
I sit and visit with Norman and his wife Jan whom used to be a school teacher, also a lady who's name escaped me, but she was the most amazing 85 year old women I had ever met. I commented on how well she looked considering she was that age, and she claims it is the walking, folks just don't walk as much as they should is her thought on the matter. And she may well have a point, you may well agree if you had seen her. I know its not all the food, because she sat and ate the same things that I did, including the pie..................but she stopped at one piece while I had 11. JUst kidding, I had 2 flavours. One a new one to me the Goose Berry which I loved, and the other was a Black Berry equally good but not knew to me. I learned a little something here, that there is also a womens liars club, they can hold there own with the men any day of the week.
To finish up the meal, I ask Norman for advice on what to do with the dinner plate I had sitting empty in front of me. To which he informed me to take it up, scrap it off and put it in the sink to be washed. By the time that I had done this, Frannie, yes Frannie in person had come and sat at the table where I sat. She too, had heard that I was riding that skinny contraption across USA. So now being rid of my plates, I asked Frannie if I pay her or what? She pointed to the open Cash Till, and said that I am to do like everyone else has for over 21 years and that is pay the till myself and make the proper change for myself if need be. Wow, I was amazed. Each person in turn, steps up and does just that............Frannie sits relaxed and totally unaware of what takes place at the cash till. She's feeding friends she tells me later, and has no reason to worry or consider honesty. I believe her, and considering how vocal the folks out side of the establishment where about my eating at Frannies, I knew also that she was feeding true friends as well.
Having Frannie sitting at the same table, along with Norman and Dewey gave me a chance to ask a few more questions and to listen to just how famous this little hole in the wall restaurant really is. Frannie has been a guest on almost every television show during day time, and night time television, not to mention the same over in Britian and several other European countries. Too many magazines and Newspapers to remember, and commentary about her business and her cooking covers the spectrum. The little story that I really got a chuckle out of, was by one particular food critic from some city up north. He stated that the food was rather "farmerish" and that Frannies restaurant would not last 6 months considering the ridiculous prices. Frannie leans a little closer to me and says, have a look around there's quite a few farmers ain't there? To which I have to agree, there certainly are, which made her point about farmerish food rather well. And besides she says as she sits back to recline in her wooden chair, I think I could make a dead man climb two flights of stairs for a $1.00 dinner, and she smiles knowing that she had once again made her point...................I am feeding friends here..................and have been doing it for 21 years now since my husband passed away.
The Kansas Politicians have bought her pies to take back to Washington DC, the local politicians have taken her pies to other countries on overseas goodwill trips, and up to Witchita for sessions of State business. Frannie has had the State of Kansas Health Inspector as well as the State Fire Marshall come to work on several occasisions in her kitchen helping her to make up the required pies. In total she makes at least 12 fresh pies per day for the restaurant, and then some for orders from folks whom have ate her pies. But on the days Wed, Thurs and Fri she makes up some 20-25 pies per day and more for Saturday. She informs me that on the day before Thanksgiving of last year, she made 149 pies as orders for folks to have with there dinners.
Without any doubt, Frannie is feeding friends the BEST PIE I have ever had. I know, that is a lot of territory to take in, and yes I agree I have not had your pie or your wifes pie. I feel sorry that I have to make a statement such as this, because I know that my own Mom is out there reaading this and wondering about her own son's loyalty. So because I feel so bad making this rather bold statement......................I offer a PIE CHALLENGE.
Here is how it works, iether you or your wife can make fresh hand made pie, cool it and then ship it to my home address >>>>Jeremiah Watt, 47069 Crump Lane, HC 1 Box 34, Coalinga, CA 93120 USA.<<<<< My wife will freeze each entry until I get home and then we will have a pie tasting to declare just whom among you should wear the Pie Makers Crown. We will notify each person who enters a pie, and award something to the best pie sent in. So ladys, polish up the rolling pin, husbands get out there and pick some fresh berries because the PIE CHALLENGE is stiff competition to be sure.................YOU are going up against Frannie's Famous Pies.
I did finally leave, and rode further east to a little town called Pique whick is now almost "no town". But at one time Pique was large enough to have a huge Live Theater building, lost to fire back in the 60's. It was a frequent stop for Harry Houdini's performing troupe. It is also the home place of Buster Keaton.
Now about the only thing that remains of this once thriving little town along a busy railroad is the great looking Catholic Church.
I passed thru Iola, a town of a little more size than most. I done a little Xmas Shopping on the sly at a local junk store. Hada ride around the town square, and came upon this dedication to Funston, whom must have been quite a soldier. He certainly had a huge impact on everything that he was put in charge of.
With the best of intentions headed to the local Library to get a little work done on my blog.....................but folks, I am telling you.......we have lost control of our local Libraries. The teens here ran the asylum, and I was too fed up with this BS to put up with it.
I called my darling wife, just to let her know about the PIE CHALLENGE, and to let her know I was ALIVE. JUst in case she was trying to claim insurance early on me. She informed me that I was to change my travel plans and head for southern Missouri to visit with the Brennen's some family cowboy friends. Dave and allison, used to work out in Nevada for Larry and Toni Shutte, and we have crossed paths many times, but now that they live In Nixa Missouri, I think that I need to head there way since we are so close. And after all, it is there daughter "Lizard's" birthday...................hate to miss out on CAKE!!!!!!!!!
So with that In mind we talked about the wheres and whys, and I made my plans. I headed out of Iola due east to Moran, and it is now about 5:30 so I stop and get a little something to drink since the bike was reading rather warm. I take on some Gatorade, and while I do so along comes Gordon. Gordon, had served in Vietnam, and was not to happy with the way the troops whom served had been treated upon return home........and he was hoping that the kids in Iraq would be treated better. "We sure can't afford to lose another of these world confrontations says Gordie, I think that we will be in a lot of serious trouble if we let this war slip by unresolved like we did in Vietnam. Say says Gordie, you better be ware of the "chigger's" around these parts.............do you know about Chigger's he asks me? Why no I tell him, I don't have a clue what you are speaking of. To that he pulls his pants up, rather than down to show me real "chigger" bites.......them little buggers will really leave you sufferin if ya ain't careful on where ya set yer tent. So Gordie goes on to tell me to avoid the fresh green grass, and try to stay in the mowed and brown grass or dirt if ya kin find it.
I turn due south of Moran, and ride about 2 miles till I spot some FALT BARE DIRT that looks chigger free, and set up my camp. Quite a wind blowing, and a lot of very heavy cloud is banked up along the southwest skies. I had a great supper of bnoodles cooked in hot tomatoe sauce and a cup of tea. The dew is very heavy on this night.
Good Night and God Bless

Comments
Hi Jeremiah -
Hope everything is okay in your part of the world...?
Love your pictures - they just get better and better..
Well, about the Pie Challenge... I'm not real sure whether Colleen will appreaciate a piece of pie, that's been on the "road" or "air" for the better of two weeks, which it takes for a package to get from Denmark to Coalinga, CA. (!!) So, I send you guys something else, hope you'll apprciate it just as much as a piece of pie..
Keep the faith..
Cheers
Per
Posted by: Per Kronvold | September 28, 2006 2:48 PM
Mr. Watt...these pictures are wonderful. I love the architecture....so old-fashioned! I hope all is well. We continue to pray for you. Its good to see you arew meeting new people. HAve a good evening!
Posted by: Darren | September 28, 2006 4:46 PM
Loved the part about the $1.00 for a meal. Reminded me of the seven nights for seven dollars room I had back in the late 1960's. -Art
Posted by: Art Lawrence | October 15, 2006 2:31 PM