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April 23, 2007

Leaving the Red Desert

In December, I wrote about the migration of the sheep to our leases in Wyoming’s Red Desert. Most of the ewes spend the winter on BLM grazing leases, and in a “checkerboard” pasture owned by the BLM and the Wyoming Game and Fish. That pasture is known as Chain Lakes and is wonderful winter country distinguished by ephemeral lakes at the “bottom” of the Red Desert Great Basin. The Continental Divide separates here, creating a closed basin which drains to neither the Atlantic nor the Pacific.

Blog readers have seen many pictures of the sheep as they winter on this high desert country. Seasons pass, and it is time for us to head for our spring country. We are hard upon shearing, which typically takes place sometime between April 20th and May 5th, for us. We are dependent upon the traveling shearing crew, which spends an intense spring season traveling from flock to flock. Our crew, “Shear Pleasure”, is based in Casper, Wyoming, and recruits mostly Kiwi (New Zealand) shearers for the season.

The shearers schedule is not set in stone, to say the least, as they work around weather, ranchers’ needs, equipment maintenance, and shearer availability. This year, our crew is pretty close to on schedule, with their biggest delay caused by tick fever, an occupational hazard. They are due to arrive Tuesday, the 24th, so we are praying for good weather for the five or so days it takes us to get through the ewes. Luckily, other shearers came early and we got most of the rams out of the way.

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Leaving the Red Desert
North of Creston Junction, Sweetwater County, Wyoming
photo by Sharon O'Toole

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Approaching the I80 underpass
North of Creston Junction
photo by Sharon O'Toole
Our trek south is the reverse of our December journey north. The biggest hazard is crossing under I80 and over the Union Pacific overpass, while flagging for ever-increasing amounts of traffic. Flagging entails one pickup, with flashers and red flags, traveling in front of the sheep, and another behind. Often the flagger has to jump out and wave frantically at approaching traffic. We crossed three bands of about 1800 ewes each, three successive days. The first day greeted us with ice, wind and snow. Most of these photos were taken on the second day, which dawned clear and calm.

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Baggs Bound
South of Creston Junction
photo by Sharon O'Toole

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Crossing the UP line
South of Creston Junction, up and over
photo by Sharon O'Toole

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Traffic backed up on the railroad overpass, first day
South of Creston Junction
photo by Sharon O'Toole

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Off the highway, through the Rodewald gate
South of Creston Junction
photo by Sharon O'Toole

We probably trail more than any other sheep and cattle operation in the United States. Much of the success of this depends upon the kindness of our neighbors. Often crossing private land allows us to make our treks shorter and easier. On this particular trail, we could continue down the highway. These days, the highways are heavy with oilfield traffic as people and equipment head for job sites, and even with extensive flagging, trailing on the highway is a dangerous business. In the last photo, we are seen entering the gate into Duane and Debbie Rodewald's place, just north of our Badwater pasture. Thank you, Duane and Debbie (and our other neighbors as well!).

April 19, 2007

Horizon's Edge

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Fan Rock
Moffat County, Colorado
photo by Sharon O'Toole

Horizon’s Edge

Mountains slice horizon’s edge,
Purple stones that cut sky’s blue
With climbing, crumbling ancient ledge
Bisecting earth and heav’n in two.
With rock-cut boundaries sharp and clean,
Clear sky lies nigh on landscape’s glow,
Two realms with nothing in between.
No blurry blend of earth and snow,
No mist where sea slides into sky,
No foggy realm where edge dissolves,
No script “Beyond here monsters lie.”
No doubt where edge of map resolves.

The earth ends here, just here you see,
Horizon’s edge, eternity.

April 16, 2007

First Branding

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First Calves
Home Ranch
photo by Sharon O'Toole

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On the outside looking in
photo by Sharon O'Toole

We have a fine accumulation of calves, and they are getting bigger by the day. We had plans to press our Easter guests into service as a branding crew (this was news to most of them), but as I explained last week, a sheep shearing crew appeared unexpectedly and our guests were converted to corral help.

While this was good luck, this still left us with a bunch of growing calves who needed the whole branding routine. Yesterday dawned bright and clear, and we gathered up enough people to brand these young calves. Believe me, it is much easier than branding old calves!

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George at the gate
photo by Sharon O'Toole

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Siobhan and Lucky helping
photo by Sharon O'Toole

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Pat with hot irons
photo by Sharon O'Toole

April 12, 2007

April Sunset

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Squaw Mountain in April
Home Ranch
photo by Pat O'Toole

April 11, 2007

Easter Blessings

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Ram lambs before shearing
Home Ranch
photo by Meghan Lally

We had an incredible Easter weekend. Friday, April 6th was our granddaughter Siobhan’s third birthday. This coincided with Easter weekend, and our grandson Seamus’s baptism. Many relatives showed up to celebrate these occasions. We had planned a branding for Easter Saturday, with the extra help for the ground crew in mind. On Good Friday, we got word that a shearing crew was in the country, so we quickly adjusted our plans. We have our replacement ram lambs here at the Home Ranch, and the opportunity to get them sheared before the main shearing later this month was a godsend.

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Shearer making the long blow
Home Ranch
photo by Pat O'Toole

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Seamus studying wool quality
photo by Meghan Lally


We will soon be shearing our main ewe bunches (watch this blog for details!) but it is an added chore to haul the bucks in and out as we shear. In past years, a number of small shearing crews would travel the country and shear the farm flocks and the odds and ends, like our bucks. These crews are almost non-existent now, as the sheep industry has shrunk, and the number of skilled shearers has too. We are the last big sheep outfit in our county, and most of our neighbors with small farm flocks depend on our crew when we shear the main bunch. They haul them in in stock trailers and pickup trucks. The shearing crew, as a courtesy, shear these odd bunches of sheep.

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Motley Crew
photo by Pat O'Toole


The appearance of a crew before the main season allowed our neighbors to get their farm flocks sheared, and allowed us to get the bucks out of the way early. We were truly grateful to see them. The shearers, like our sheepherders, come in on H2A visas, since few domestic shearers join the crews. The shearing contractors report increasing difficulties in obtaining visas. This crew was keeping busy while awaiting their fellows for the main season.

We sheared Saturday morning, pressing our family and friends into service for corral help. Saturday afternoon and evening, we had a major birthday party. We still planned to brand calves Sunday morning since the Easter church service wasn’t until noon, but an unexpected snowfall postponed that plan. It probably meant that we had a chance to really clean up before church!

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Baptism of Seamus Brian Lally
St. Paul's, Dixon, Wyoming
photo by Pat O'Toole

All in all, we had a blessed and productive Easter weekend, and for that, we thank the Lord.

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Birthday Girl with her cousins
photo by Pat O'Toole

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Easter Lamb
Red Desert, Sweetwater County, Wyoming
photo by Pat O'Toole

April 6, 2007

Hunting, Fishing and Dancing

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Meghan at the Ladder Ranch Booth
Salt Lake City, Utah
photo by Pat O'Toole

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Winter deer
near Home Ranch
photo by Pat O'Toole

Our ranching operation, like many others in the West, has added a ranch recreation business to our traditional cattle, sheep and farming enterprises. We have done this for several reasons. To us, raising livestock is our true love, and (to expand the metaphor), she is also “the one who brung us” to this dance. She has, however, been fickle, what with weather, markets, predators, regulations, etc., and etc., and etc. In short, we need a broader base and more stability. We farm to raise hay and alfalfa for our winter livestock feed.

We are blessed to live and work in an area that supports abundant and healthy wildlife populations. The same rich, high altitude grasses which allow our livestock to thrive also creates wonderful habitat for species large and small. We have a famous elk herd in our area, as well as mule deer and even antelope, as they have moved up from their droughty desert home. The predator control we practice to protect our livestock also benefits these ungulates, as well as other species such as sage grouse.

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Migrating elk
Moffat County, Colorado
photo by Pat O'Toole

Our area has always been popular with hunters. In the past, we allowed almost anyone who asked to access our private land for hunting. In recent years, we have changed this practice. It is partly because the hunting pressure has become greater, and many of the hunters are not known to us. Vandalism and poor manners have increased. In addition, it has become a revenue source to stabilize our livestock operation.

Some of our neighboring ranches count hunting as their main source of income, with the livestock as a sideline. Unlike them, we charge a “trespass fee” and do not offer guiding services, although we do offer room and board.

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Sharon, Meghan & Siobhan by rock structures
Battle Creek, Carbon County, Wyoming
photo by Pat O'Toole

We also have a wonderful fishing resource on Battle Creek, which runs through the heart of the Home Ranch. We have done extensive fish habitat enhancements in a cooperative project with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the Wyoming Game and Fish. We have four species of naturally reproducing wild trout. These stream structures also enhance our flood irrigation in the hay meadows along Battle Creek. These meadows also provide wildlife habitat year-round.

Naturally, all these efforts to grow our recreation business take a lot of time and energy. Luckily for us, our very able daughter Meghan has taken charge of the ranch recreation enterprise and is successfully growing it every year.

In March, we had a booth at a major outdoor show in Salt Lake City. It was amazing, with about 1200 vendors manning booths to promote everything from salmon fishing in Alaska to house boats on Lake Powell to hog hunts in Utah. It also featured lots of educational booths for children, and lectures and classes for adults.

Meghan mostly tended the booth. Pat and I went along to help her with the project, but mostly to keep Siobhan (almost 3) and Seamus (8 months) occupied. I had a great time! I took the kids to the zoo, the St. Patrick’s Day parade, the Disney on Ice show, and for a trip on the light rail. Siobhan also tried her hand at fishing, animal ID and various other kids’ activities at the show.

This was our first attempt at this type of advertising. Up until now, we have relied on word of mouth and some newspaper ads. So far, it appears to be worth our time, money and effort.
We also offer ranch experiences, such as helping to brand calves or tend sheep camps, but since this was a hunting and fishing show, we concentrated on our wildlife resource. It was just as hard as getting up at 3 a.m. to calve heifers, although the kids had more fun!

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Sharon & Seamus at the zoo
Salt Lake City, Utah
photo by Pat O'Toole

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Siobhan asleep at the show
Salt Lake City, Utah
photo by Sharon O'Toole

The opinions expressed in the Western Folklife Center's Deep West online journals are those of the online journal participants and not the Western Folklife Center. The Western Folklife Center does not moderate these journals and as such does not guarantee the veracity, reliability or completeness of any information provided in the journals or in any hyperlink appearing within them.

About Pat & Sharon O'Toole

Sharon O'Toole
Pat and Sharon O’Toole are ranchers in the Little Snake River Valley near Savery, Wyoming, right on the Colorado-Wyoming border. They raise cattle, sheep, horses, dogs and children. Pat “immigrated” from Florida in 1970. He attended Colorado State University, where he met Sharon when both worked for the campus newspaper. Sharon grew up on their ranch, where they live and work with her father, their daughter, son and granddaughter (soon to be grandchildren!). Pat is a “water buffalo” and has served in the Wyoming House of Representatives (1986-1992), on the President’s Western Water Policy Review Advisory Commission, and is the current President of the Family Farm Alliance, which advocates for farmers, ranchers and irrigators. Sharon is an author, poet and journalist. She writes extensively on Western issues and is a columnist for “The Shepherd” magazine. Pat and Sharon are the parents of three children: Meghan, 27; Bridget, 26; and Eamon, 20.
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