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Battle Mountain

Sharon, Chief on Battle Mt._edited-1.jpg
Sharon and Chief on Battle Mountain
Carbon County, Wyoming
photo by Pat O'Toole

The dominant feature of the landscape in our river valley is an extinct volcano, Battle Mountain. Its mountain man name was “Bastion Mountain” but it came to its present name after a battle in 1841. It was a multi-day fight between trappers seeking beaver and Indians from several tribes who crossed the Continental Divide to drive them out. From the tales that survive, everybody lost. A large number of the Arapahoes, Cheyenne and others were killed, along with several of the mountain men, whose leader Henry Fraeb died in the fighting. Jim Baker pronounced him “the ugliest dead man I’ve ever seen—and I’ve seen a good many.” The horseless trappers walked to Fort Bridger, about 200 miles away, and the Indians retreated to fight another day. I often wonder what their name was for such a massive mountain.

Plata &  Pat.jpg
Plata & Pat overlooking the valley
photo by Sharon O'Toole

Squaw Mt. from Battle Mt._edited-1.jpg
View of the home ranch from Battle Mountain
photo by Sharon O'Toole


Battle Mountain lies a mile or so northwest of our home ranch, depending on where you start measuring. In all my years, I have been all around it, up and down looking for cattle, and made several forays nearly to the top. But I had never stood on the summit, which is actually a large mesa. The area is famous for its wildlife, particularly the elk herds who hang here to rut and shelter during the fall migration. They like the mountain-top, with its feed, spring water and relative safety from hunters.

Last week, Pat said, “Let’s go to the top of Battle Mountain and look for strays.” Now we did not expect to find that any cows and calves that high, even though it is contiguous to our summer pasture. We know that we could see the world from there, and with the help of binoculars, save ourselves a lot of riding. I was glad to go and finally know that I had been to the top.

We went horseback, and had to lead our horses up through the last rocky embankments that lie just below the sagelands on the summit. When the volcano erupted, about a zillion years ago (I’m sure geologists have an idea when, but I don’t), it left a ring of cliffs around most of the top. A canyon was blown out of the east side, leaving a huge rectangular mass with a V cut out of one side. The sides are covered with a variety of plant life, from sage to pines to aspen groves to Gambol’s oak (its northern-most range, we are told). The key is to wind your way up through the sage areas, and try to minimize the bushwhacking through the brush. It makes sense to follow the many deer and elk paths, except that they can duck under and hop over obstacles that truly obstruct a horse and rider.

When we scrambled to the top, I found a different world than I had expected. The mesa is not evenly connected, but separated into zones by other natural features like rocks and trees. I guess rocks and trees should be expected in such a place! On the slope below the highest point, which actually looks like a pointy summit, we spotted several hundred elk. We could hear their eerie whistles and they milled and courted.

It was getting on toward sunset, and was pretty darned cold, even though snow spotted the ground only unevenly. We found some cattle, some miles to the east, but at least we knew where to look. And we took some photos.

Invisible Elk on Battle Mt._edited-2.jpg
Elk Heaven
photo by Sharon O'Toole

Bibleback, Camelback from Battle Mt.jpg
Bibleback & Camelback Mountains
photo by Sharon O'Toole

Comments

Great Story, I will be taking about 200 or so people over Battle Mountain Pass in June of 09. I will forward your story and photos to them so they know what to expect.

Dave Huson

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About Pat & Sharon O'Toole

Sharon O'Toole
Pat and Sharon O’Toole are ranchers in the Little Snake River Valley near Savery, Wyoming, right on the Colorado-Wyoming border. They raise cattle, sheep, horses, dogs and children. Pat “immigrated” from Florida in 1970. He attended Colorado State University, where he met Sharon when both worked for the campus newspaper. Sharon grew up on their ranch, where they live and work with her father, their daughter, son and granddaughter (soon to be grandchildren!). Pat is a “water buffalo” and has served in the Wyoming House of Representatives (1986-1992), on the President’s Western Water Policy Review Advisory Commission, and is the current President of the Family Farm Alliance, which advocates for farmers, ranchers and irrigators. Sharon is an author, poet and journalist. She writes extensively on Western issues and is a columnist for “The Shepherd” magazine. Pat and Sharon are the parents of three children: Meghan, 27; Bridget, 26; and Eamon, 20.
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